Among the many side quests available on our current adventure, perhaps seeing a Puffin is the most intriguing to me. These loveable little goofballs hop around along the rocks with their clown makeup on. When they fly in this wind it always looks like it’s their first time in flight, flapping a hundred times per minute and getting tossed around or moving nowhere. The Gulls effortlessly gliding next to them must be showing off. I included a couple stops along the coast where I read that Puffins stay for summer. They just always felt like an animal that’s from so far away, that I won’t ever see them. Today if I sit still enough they will hop a few feet away.

A year ago I saw a picture online that stuck with me. It was of a rocky coastline with five brightly painted colorful houses lined up along a cliff. Someone had shared it, perhaps thinking it was AI, they asked, “Someone claims this was taken on our island, but is there anywhere that actually looks like this?”

“I live in Bonavista and my neighborhood looks exactly like this.”

This line was the driving force behind this extra six days on Newfoundland. The Bonavista Penninsula is to cute towns and charm what Gros Morne is to geology. Bonavista is completely across the island on the east coast. It will take us several days of just driving to reach here, but I’m so glad we did. In addition to Puffins and Trinity, this area actually also has a rich geological history and is entirely enclosed in a UNESCO geopark. Amy will make sure we see every ripple and fossil. Out first stop was a hike to the coast to see some Haootia fossils. Great hike but total failure at finding any ancient animal fossils.

Tonight the plan is to stay at campsite that I am a bit nervous about. It seems too good to be true, and in my experience that means it is. What did I miss? I keep waiting to find out. The small town of Bonavista has a cute historic lighthouse perched on the far end of the peninsula. From here they say you can look out and see Puffins or whale watch right on the shore. And you can do all of this while you relax right at your campsite for FREE. We have stayed at our fair share of free, first come first serve sites, but rarely do they come with this kind of cure, history, and wildlife. For starters, this is the spot where John Cabot “discovered northern North America.” A mere 500 years after the Vikings across the island. The park is aptly named Landfall Municipal Park. We are happy to see that when we arrive around four that there are still plenty of spaces available. There is nowhere else close so this was a relief. We file in, knowing our space will continually shrink as new campers arrive. It doesn’t bother me in sites like this for the people who seek them out are usually the type of people we enjoy. Everyone here has done this before and it’s another lesson in communal living and being considerate. We felt the sudden urge to tour the cute lighthouse to our side. It was crazy to picture the life of the family who lived here and meticulously cared for and operated this lighthouse. What a strange maritime world they created whereby a boat would pass by waving a flag asking questions and the lighthouse would respond in kind. Perhaps they were asking about resupply or if a doctor was in town. Lighthouse operators were well respected in their communities and were paid well although they worked hard. More of a lifestyle than a job.

On our way back to our spot we finally saw it. Whale, I shouted! Everyone around looked at me like, “no shit asshole, they are everywhere.” This would soon make sense as for the next twelve hours we were dazzled by a never ending parade of whales passing right by the shore in front of our bus. We pulled up chairs and never lost interest, at times they just spouted a giant cloud, other times they would wave with their tale as they dove, occasionally they would roll over like a dog asking for scratchies, and one memorable time the whale jumped straight up and smashed down so hard I expected to feel a splash. I missed nothing, this place is incredible.

During sunset we chose to take a walk along the coast to dairy bar we read about. The lighting on the way back was unreal and I love watching the kids run through the rocky highlands, in addition to puffins and whales, it’s what I really wanted to see this trip.

Maple took a picture of me