Fortress of Louisbourg, Nova Scotia

The fortress of Louisbourg was built by the French in the early 1700’s to protect their interests across the pond. The fort played an important role in the struggle between the British and French over the future of Canada.

In 1745 the British successfully laid siege to the fort and took it over. They eventually returned it to the French only to have it besieged again during the Seven Years War. The British were again successful and held a garrison here until they tore down the walls and destroyed the fort when they left the area, less it fall into enemy hands again.

We are lucky that the community on this island in the 1960’s along with the Canadian government felt this site was worth restoring. With few exceptions only the foundations remained of this once bustling fort which had over 4000 residents at its peak. Historians and stonemasons worked hard to restore approximately 1/4 of this town to its 1744 heyday. Today, the fortress is a living museum with a small army of reenactors making the city feel alive and real. We spent the day touring blacksmith shops, the governors mansion, taverns, and average homes, but one area held a particular interest to us. We were anxious to see the place where they kept the worst of the worst, the deserters and criminals; the Prison. For this is where we will be spending the night.

I remember when I discovered that you can actually spend the night at the fort. I read a blog that explained after five PM the park is closed to the public and everyone, including the reenactors head home. A lucky few can remain in the park to sleep and of more interest to me, get the entire fort to yourself. This unlocks the ability to experience the entire fortress in private solitude. Parks Canada offered two choices, a fully furnished home, completely adorned in cute linens and art all appropriate to the time period while also equipped with a private bathroom. The other option was The Prison. This comes fully equipped with a slanted wooden board to sleep on. Comfortable or not, only one of these sounded like a unique once in a lifetime experience.

So here we are at our prison orientation, wondering how you get sleep on a 20 degree slant. The kids would eventually melt to the lowest point and sleep in a blob, Amy and I fought gravity throughout the night, often using the shackles for leverage to correct my position. This constant tossing and turning gives you ample time to think about the different individuals buried beneath the floor here that we learned about during our orientation. This minor inconvenience was worth it. Having an entire historic town to yourself is an oddly magical feeling. As self proclaimed Governor of the fortress, we lit a fire to grill steaks then we let loose and toured the facilities over and over at every different light. During the day, these streets and shops are filled with tourists and actors giving it a feel of a real working 18th century city, but alone, at night, this ghost town became our own private museum. Our bus parked in the middle of town being the only thing to remind you this isn’t 1750. Once in a life time indeed, because next time I’m renting the mansion with mattresses.

My favorite part of the day was the public shaming. The entire town gathered around to shame a petty thief who was caught red handed. The crowd grew as the guards marched him through the streets reading off the charges. We were encouraged to throw out clever insults and many townsfolk had me laughing with their harsh observations. After tying him up in town square, we the villagers decided to let him out based on circumstances and it brought a sense of camaraderie to everyone in the park.

After a night aboard the ship, driving off the ferry this morning meant no more Newfoundland. I miss the trees most. That feeling that I belong there. I remember though that I fell in love with Nova Scotia long before I had ever made it to Newfoundland. It’s hard to miss Newfoundland if you’re having this much fun in Nova Scotia.

On his way home from work, one of the actors stopped and asked me about the bus and kids. “You’re living my dream.” Me too, my man.

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